Masa:

Remember how I said you’d have to pay dearly?? Well, Masa just so happens to be the most expensive restaurant in all of New York City, and for that matter the entire country. Meals are omakase, or chef’s choice only, and cost around $600 per person. Expect a variety of edible artwork in sushi form, made with the finest (if not ecologically sustainable) ingredients in the world. Although it recently lost its fourth Michelin Star, it is still the place to be for sushi in the Big Apple.

10 Columbus Circle,

Time Warner Center, 4/F

New York, NY 10019

masanyc.com

Urasawa:

Masa’s slightly less expensive counterpart in LA, Urasawa, uses traditional ideas, but the there is always a twist, often involving edible gold or ice sculptures. Only a few diners are served each night, allowing for a truly personal experience. Like Masa, it is omakase only, and the chef has close to 50 tiny courses in store for you. Think of the $450 price tag as covering dinner and the night’s entertainment, as you will probably be there for well over three hours. While you’re there, chat with the friendly chefs, or the Hollywood celebrity on your right.

218 N Rodeo Drive
Beverly Hills, CA 90210

www.yelp.com/biz/urasawa-beverly-hills

Sushi Zo:

Also in Los Angeles, Sushi Zo is much more affordable at around $160 a head. Unlike Masa and Urasawa, Sushi Zo takes a more traditional approach and scraps the unnecessary luxury. When you get your bill at the end of the 26-course omakase, you are paying for the food. Located in an austere strip mall, the mostly Japanese clientele dining in an average setting are there for the freshest ngiri, sashimi, and hand rolls West of the Mississippi, and arguably the world.

9824 National Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90034

www.yelp.com/biz/sushi-zo-los-angeles

Sushi Kaji:

Technically, Sushi Kaji is in Canada, but this Toronto gem is too good to be overlooked. Master chef Mitsuhiro Kaji believes in traditional, seasonal ingredients, most of which are flown in from Japan. In fact, all the fish he serves in his restaurant have arrived from Tokyo that morning, and nothing is ever stored overnight. Using a variety of skills he learned while training across Japan, Kaji crafts each dish to work harmoniously within itself, as well as together with the rest of the courses of the omakase. Best of all, it’s a relative bargain at $120 per person! So, if you’re ever visiting our neighbors to the north, stop by this place for a truly authentic experience.

860 The Queensway 
Etobicoke, Ontario M8Z 1N7 

www.sushikaji.com/top.html

O Ya:

A little more accessible to Tufts students, at least as far as location is concerned, this Boston landmark serves some of the nation’s most creative izakaya, or Japanese tapas. Although much of the menu consists of non-sushi dishes, I felt it necessary to include O Ya on this list, anyway. If innovation is what you seek, look no further! Ngiri, sashimi, and other small plates feature exotic Japanese ingredients, while highlighting local ones, too, such as lobster. But, come prepared to spend $120 per person, if you dare. Think of it like this: Tufts costs 57K a year, but for 0.2% of that price you could have the night of your life. Do college degrees melt in your mouth? Didn’t think so.

9 East Street
Boston, MA 02111

oyarestaurantboston.com

- Gabriel Spieler

Ebisuya Sushi Bar:

Located inside Ebisuya, Medford Square’s Japanese supermarket, this sushi bar is only a 20-minute walk from Tufts, and even quicker by bus. It is my favorite spot for traditional sushi when my parents aren’t in town.

Pros: Very fresh fish, extremely cheap (~$12/pp gets you a ton of sushi), no tip or tax because you pay for it at the register and it counts as a grocery item, inside seating

Cons: Limited menu, long waits even though you’re the only customer, no free water (but you can buy a large bottle next door at the CVS or bring our own)

65 Riverside Ave
Medford, MA 02155

(781) 391-0012

www.ebisuyamarket.com

Hours:

HoursMonday – Friday: 10:00am – 7:30pm
Saturday: 9:00am – 7:30pm
Sunday: 11:30am – 6:00pm

Snappy Sushi:

This Davis Square establishment is moderately priced and excellent for take-out. Come to Snappy Sushi next time you’re in Davis for decent and interesting sushi.

Pros: High quality fish, emphasis on healthy ingredients, “fancy rolls” are innovative and tasty (but expensive), more affordable lunch specials, service is very quick

Cons: Fairly expensive (almost 2x more than Ebisuya) although still reasonable, they only use brown rice

420 Highland Ave
Somerville, MA 02144

(617) 625-0400

www.snappysushi.com

Hours:

Sunday – Thursday: 11:30am – 10:00pm
Friday – Saturday: 11:30am – 11:00pm

Yoshi’s Restaurant:

This is probably the closest sushi place to Tufts, located just across the street from campus in Powder House Square. Go on a Tuesday from 5-9 PM and take advantage of their all-you-can-eat sushi deal for $27.95/person!!

Pros: Close to Tufts, a Tufts ID gets you 10% off, delivery (for $1.75), all-you-can-eat sushi, large menu, fish is usually fresh

Cons: Can be very expensive if you don’t order wisely, not the most authentic

132 College Ave
Somerville, MA 02144

(617) 623-9263

www.yoshis.net/index.html

Hours:

HoursMonday – Thursday: 11:30am – 10:00pm
Friday – Saturday: 11:30am – 11:00pm
Sunday: 12:30pm – 10:00pm

- Gabriel Spieler

Now that you know more than you ever wanted to know about the stuff, there is only one piece of advice I have left for you—BE ADVENTUROUS! It’s great that you love the California Roll, but for God’s sake try something new as well. If you’re a vegetarian/vegan, your options are somewhat limited, although there is a whole range of Japanese fresh vegetables and pickles out there. But, if you eat seafood like me, a whole wonderland of exotic edibles awaits. All you have to do is muster up the courage the next time you go out. Start out with something simple and cooked, like inari (sweet tofu), tamago (egg), or shrimp. Eel might sound funky, but it is always cooked, and one of the most consistently delicious things on your typical sushi menu. (Remember, they are just elongated fish!) If you like any of these things, which I’m betting you will, move onto the raw stuff: tuna, salmon, yellowtail, red snapper, etc. Depending on the restaurant, more obscure items such as halibut, Spanish mackerel, and amberjack may be offered. If you are willing to spend and the restaurant has it, get toro (fatty tuna) or otoro (extra-fatty tuna), which literally melts in your mouth. If you’re an adventurous eater already, I encourage you to order squid, octopus, scallop, sweet raw shrimp, uni (sea urchin roe), ikura (salmon roe), and ankimo (monkfish liver). While monkfish liver might seem bizarre, its flavor profile and texture aren’t nearly as bizarre as the more benign sounding raw shrimp or octopus. I love eating these things, but they are slimy and can be a textural nightmare for some. Sea urchin roe is another favorite of mine, but it too is a bit slimy. If you’ve breezed through all of these things without a second thought and you’re a total badass, there is one thing left for you to try. Although incredibly hard to find in the United States outside of New York City, fugu (pufferfish) is available in restaurants throughout Japan. I’ve personally never eaten it, but it is supposed to be incredibly delicious and wonderful. While there is nothing insane about the flavor or texture of this fish, the taboo behind eating fugu stems from the fact that improper preparation can lead to contamination of tetrodotoxin, a powerful neurotoxin that will paralyze and slowly suffocate an unlucky consumer. For this reason, be extremely cautious about where you eat fugu, if you choose to eat it at all. It is also important to realize that all fugu chefs in Japan and the U.S. must go through a rigorous licensing process before they are allowed to handle the fish, but there are still occasional accidents. Fugu might be a little extreme, but regardless of how adventurous you are, remember that anything new that you try could become your new favorite food. And now for some restaurants…to be continued in the next part 

]]> http://tastytufts.com/2012/01/26/the-idiots-guide-sushi-pt-3-variety/feed/ 0 tastytufts otoro http://tastytufts.com/2012/01/26/the-idiots-guide-sushi-pt-2-proper-eating-etiquette/ http://tastytufts.com/2012/01/26/the-idiots-guide-sushi-pt-2-proper-eating-etiquette/#comments Fri, 27 Jan 2012 03:53:29 +0000 tastytufts http://tastytufts.com/?p=1021 ]]> EDIBLE ART by Gabriel Spieler

All sushi is not created equal. I judge my sushi on the quality of the ingredients, and the mastery in which those ingredients are combined together and prepared. The finest raw fish is extremely fresh and melts in your mouth, while the best sushi rice has the perfect amount of vinegar, so that it is flavorful and structurally sound but not overwhelming. There shouldn’t be too much rice, either, and it should be presented simply and elegantly.

But, even if the chef does everything right, it is up to you to be aware, if not comply with, traditional Japanese sushi etiquette in order to get the most out of your meal. First of all, wasabi should be used sparingly, to give an extra kick to an already good thing. Remember, sushi is expensive, and wasabi is not. So, when you smother your sushi with wasabi, you are eliminating the complexity of flavors in exchange for a single spicy one. Also, mixing wasabi into your soy sauce is a no-no, unless you are eating sashimi (raw fish by itself) in which case it is totally OK. Soy sauce, like wasabi, is to complement the flavor of the sushi, not undermine it, so use it sparingly. Anything that already has another sauce, like eel sushi always does, shouldn’t be dipped in soy sauce at all. When you dip ngiri into soy sauce, do so seafood side down to avoid soaking the rice with excess amounts of it. Ngiri is also traditionally eaten with the hands, although to adjust to Western table manners chopsticks are OK. The other commonly used condiment, pickled ginger, is to be used as a palate cleanser in between courses, and not to be eaten on the sushi itself. Finally, sushi is best consumed immediately after preparation, so don’t hesitate to dig in, and when you have a choice, avoid buying anything that has been sitting around all day. Right after creation, not only is the sushi the most structurally sound, but there is also a difference in the temperatures of its components, which adds contrast to the experience.

- Gabriel Spieler

HISTORICALLY SPEAKING

Sushi was first introduced to Japan from China and Southeast Asia as a form of preserving fish with salt and fermenting rice. Originally, the rice was not eaten; instead it was allowed to ferment into vinegar, an ingredient instrumental in the preservation process. To this day, the word sushi means “sour tasting,” and vinegared rice remains a key ingredient. Over time, this primitive technique that was adopted out of necessity turned into rice pressed into box form and covered with seafood. Originating in Osaka, this method (called oshizushi) spread to Edo (present-day Tokyo). It was here, in the early 1800’s, that sushi evolved to its present-day form, and has since grown in variety to include all sorts of variations.

Maki, which you are probably most familiar with, consists of sushi rice pressed against nori (seaweed) or other flat food, and rolled into a cylinder around one or more additional ingredients, usually seafood or vegetables. Some maki is sliced into bite-sized pieces, while others are left intact to be eaten with the hands (i.e. temaki AKA “hand rolls”). Another popular type of sushi is ngiri, which are mounds of rice with some other ingredient, usually fish or shellfish, on top. Lastly, inarizushi is sweet fried tofu wrapped around a central ball of rice. [This is by no means an all-inclusive list, but hopefully you get the idea.]

Then, in the late 20^th century, sushi was popularized in America and elsewhere, starting with the invention of the California roll—a creation that combined traditional Japanese style with ingredients tailored to the western palate. In only a few years, it went from being a fringe food to an American staple, and with this change sushi evolved once again. Rainbow roll, spider roll, caterpillar roll, dynamite roll, dragon roll, Philadelphia roll—this is the sushi you are probably most familiar with. Keep in mind, however, that you wouldn’t find any of these in Japan, and while purists renounce these new American innovations, I believe that they too have a place in modern cuisine. Most recently, pioneering chefs, such as Matsuhisa Nobu, took this a step further. By not only using new ingredients, but also state-of-the-art techniques, Japanese fusion was born. In my opinion, no kind of sushi is better than the other, and traditional, Western, and fusion varieties all occupy distinct but equally wonderful culinary realms.

To Be Continued…

For the Athlete who tires of drinking store-brought protein shakes but would still like to get ripped

Oster 6-cup Glass Jar 8-speed Blender. $39 from Amazon.com

Here is a solid blender that comes in below $40 and will not make a sticky mess. A blender is versatile but most useful for the athlete who appreciates a anti-oxidant rich berry smoothie with some whey protein thrown in the mix. May also be used for alcoholic smoothies, but that’s a different story altogether.

For the one who does the eyeroll when Ina Garten rolls dough with that phallic-looking rolling pin, because you secretly want it too. 

French Rolling Pin. $19

Voila. This is a rolling pin fit for the professional french-home cook or chef, except that it’s made in the USA. The seller, Kaufman Mercantile offers free 3-day shipping for this unique, beautiful ornament that is made with “kiln-dried hard American wood” with “tapered ends for precise rolling.” If the description is not suggestive enough, then you must really want this quite badly. Get it here.

For the girl who likes to cook barefoot so she can show off her legs

The Original Wellness Mats, from $119. Available here

Besides showing off beautiful legs, Wellness Mats apparently improve circulation and aid with posture. A bit on the pricey-side, but then again think of the benefits…

For your Asian friend who can’t stop complaining about how the stir-fry at the Dining Halls are not “authentic” enough

Iron 13′ Peking Wok, $49. Buy it from GiltTaste.

The reason why stir-fries don’t always work out the way you want them to is because they don’t use proper woks. Here, Gilt Taste sells one that encompasses the best of both worlds: it’s almost indestructibly well-made and it’s made in Japan. You will also find that your Asian friend will start to invite you more often to his house to cook you some “authentic” stir-fries. But if he still ends up making General Gau’s Chicken or Moo Goo Gai Pan, your gift has unfortunately gone to waste.

For the hipster you always rely on, who is addicted to (tea)pots

Double Wall Glass Dome Teapot, $49.95. Available through GiltTaste.

One should drink more tea, for a good aroma will send you on the right kind of high. It is a drink that is far healthier than 5-hour energy, Red-Bull and bad coffee. It uplifts spirits, de-toxifies, and is ever so classy. This teapot is not exception and will encourage your friend to boil tea of the exotic and possibly illegal variety.

For the one who tires of drinking cheap vodka with Kool-Aid powder thrown in the mix.

Pok-Pok Som Apple Drinking Vineager, $16.95 & “The Joy of Mixology: The Consummate Guide to the Bartender’s Craft”

Try serving up classier alcoholic cocktails and in no time, turnout at your suite parties will be crowded with classy-dressed students who appreciate a good drink. Apple Drinking vineager tastes much better than it sounds and adds sharpness to whichever alcoholic base you so choose, while masking the cheap qualities of it. Go even further and try your hand at professional mixology. Whether succesful or not, at least you can tell girls that you’ve tried.

- Jon Cheng

Tender Zucchini Fritters with Green Goddess Dressing (Recipe courtesy Ian Knauer, fulfilled by Bon Appetit)

Ingredients

Celery Root and Mushroom Latkes with Onion Applesauce
Recipe courtesy Michael Solomonov, fulfilled by Bon Appetit 

Ingredients

Tony Maws, chef at Craigie on Main in Cambridge, Mass., has almost too many accolades to count. Some of these include “One of America’s 10 Best New Chefs” by Food & Wine Magazine in 2005, a “Best Chef” honor by Boston Magazine three years later and most recently, the coveted James Beard Award for “Best Chef: Northeast” this summer.

Unlike his colleagues in the area, however, the 41−year−old Newton, Mass., native cites his first, eye−opening culinary experience not as a stint in Paris or with a glorified home kitchen experiment, but as a dishwasher during the summer after his freshman year in high school.

“My parents were like, OK it’s time to get a summer job,” Maws said. “At the time, I didn’t want to work in a mechanical shop, so I sent in a resume to my local restaurant.”

Within minutes, the restaurant called him back, and the rest is history. During that summer Maws learned the ins and outs of the kitchen, thereby dispelling the notion that a dishwashing job is inherently trivial and unrewarding.

“The idea of washing dishes was actually kind of fun. I saw some crazy s−−t as a 15−year−old,” Maws said. “I worked with college kids, servers and cooks — it was wild. It was kind of what you read about in Anthony Bourdain’s first two chapters [of Kitchen Confidential].”

Maws also found camaraderie with the staff in the kitchen. The bonding aspect, Maws said, was appealing and drew him back to the kitchen the following year.

“Things sort of steamrolled for me,” Maws said. “I started helping on the line and I thought, ‘This is kind of cool. I could do this!’”

The prospect of a career in culinary arts was quickly becoming a reality for the high school student who helped out in his grandmother’s kitchen and experimented with cooking on his own. However, when he graduated high school, the idea of going to college made sense to him.

“I went to school,” Maws said. “At [University of Michigan] I had to pick a major. I took a psychology 101 course and really enjoyed it … I learned about how to formulate an opinion, how to debate and [about] the general roundtable process.”

Even with the B.A. in psychology Maws received from Michigan, the summer of 1992 held few job opportunities, and he found himself back where he began.

“[After the ceremony,] I was at the corner of South Station and I didn’t know what the f−−k to do,” Maws said. “I [had] been working at restaurants the entire time since I was 15, so going back seemed logical.”

Maws’ post−graduation years were spent making nachos at a local bar in Cambridge, followed by a yearlong backpacking trip to Europe. After his return, he was hired at a restaurant on Martha’s Vineyard, waiting tables and helping around in the kitchen. It was during that time when he began to realize where his true passion lay.

“By the time I was 25, I tried to do different things: waiting tables, working back of the house,” Maws said. “I became friends with the chefs and then it hit me: One of them was like, ‘You work in kitchens. Have you ever thought you could do this?’ I was like, ‘I can?’ I didn’t know someone would need to give me permission to do this.”

At the suggestion of his friends in the kitchen, Maws sent off resumes yet again. He received good news from Chris Schlesinger, who at the time was at the forefront of the Boston culinary scene, Maws recalled.

“That’s what sort of set me on my path,” Maws said. “This means something to me.”

Schlesinger, who now helms the famous East Coast Grill in Cambridge, became a valuable mentor for the emerging line cook. From then on, Maws worked his way up the ranks and found himself under the tutelage of Clio chef Kenneth Oringer as a sous−chef. Still, though, Maws felt that something was missing.

“[Clio] was very important for my career,” Maws said. “But I’ve always been attracted to France and at the time there were still some important cooks there. I was going to go [apprentice] under [three−Michelin starred] Marc Veyrat for free, but there were still some issues at Clio, so I didn’t go.”

As a compromise Maws traveled to Lyon, France, months later, where he apprenticed at a small, one−Michelin starred restaurant.

“The food wasn’t spectacular, but I learned a lot,” he said.

Maws would go to the market almost every day to source ingredients, a habitual practice that would later become a hallmark of his restaurant. With two days off, he was also able to travel to other parts of France, learning techniques, flavor combinations and pairings that would later influence his refined yet rustic style and his seasonal menus.

Armed with knowledge and a newfound interest in the locavore movement, Maws returned to the United States in 2003, where he set up Craigie Street Bistrot in Cambridge. Five years and countless accolades later, he moved the restaurant to another bigger space within Cambridge, renaming it Craigie on Main.

The restaurant reflects Maws’ love for seasonal, local and exotic ingredients. They are directly sourced from all over Massachusetts, whether from farms or local inns.

“I work with 15 different farmers, maybe more,” Maws said. “I do what I do because I believe in the product and I have a relationship with these people, and at the end of the day, that’s what’s important.”

Maws’ emphasis on forage−driven produce has proven a success, and he cites consistent loyalty as the key ingredient. One entree he offers on the menu this week, for example, is a whole−roasted Misty Knoll chicken garnished with Vidalia onions, pea greens, forked potatoes and chanterelle jus.

Some of his dishes are also inspired by his travels, most notably in Southeast Asia. One appetizer on the prix fixe menu features pig’s tails, which are fried crisp and served with pickled peanuts, cilantro and nuoc cham — a Vietnamese citrus dipping sauce.

Another of the main courses has its roots in Japanese cuisine: a northern fish like wild sturgeon is marinated in miso and sesame, accompanied by fresh rock shrimp, barley couscous, fingerling potatoes and daikon broth. His dishes demonstrate the careful effort Maws puts into finding and sourcing ingredients, as well as the thought he puts into pairing those ingredients together. Some dishes, Maws said, were worked on for years before they were put on the menu.

That focus on quality of ingredients combined with Maws’ strict and relentless discipline is why Craigie on Main is considered one of Boston’s top restaurants.

“The thing I would tell anyone is probably, ‘Shut up,’” Maws said. “If you’re concerned about money, you’re doing it for the wrong reason, or ego, or prowess.”

- Jon Cheng

The lecture started with a short talk on microorganisms, what they were, how they exist, and why they’re important in our food. This short lecture given by the professor that teaches the Food Science Lectures at Harvard was followed by none other than David Chang! Chang talked about the different microorganisms that he has come across in his experimenting with food such as aspergillus oryzae, a fungus used to ferment soybeans. It is more commonly known as koji and is used in abundance in Chang’s cooking. The first mini petri was koji grown on barley, it had a slightly bitter taste of barley with a sense that it was being fermented by the organism.

Then, Chang went on to talk about glutamic acid and its role in dry aged beef to create flavor. The umami flavor was prominent in foods that contain glutamates. This is pretty much why monosodium glutamate (MSG) makes any savory food more delicious. The second petri dish had several grams on MSG, of which I had a pinch. Some people were licking the dish clean! My grandmother used a lot of MSG in her cooking, which is probably why everything was absolutely amazing, but I’ve been able to wean myself off it in my own cooking. Overall, I’d say used MSG sparingly and only if you need that extra kick. I’m pretty sure Chang uses it in his ramen, and it’s kicking!

The MSG was followed by the 3^rd dish with Peanut-Butter Miso which was discovered by Chang who was not sure if mixing the two would taste good. He suggested sampling the peanut-butter miso with the apple provided, and yet again, a great suggestion by David Chang. The peanut-butter miso had a smooth taste that was predominantly peanut-buttery but with a slight savory addition from the miso. It paired really well with the tart apple.

Alas, the 4^th petri dish was not to be eaten. Sure, it was “edible”, but Chang suggested not eating it. The dish contained neurospora, a fungus used to grow oncom, a food common in Sudanese cuisine. The small, solid spores smelled like cider, which make them more tempting to eat. Chang spent the lecture going over the different uses of the various microorganisms that have become present in his cooking. Although it’s risky since many microorganisms can be dangerous, Chang has been very lucky in self-sampling his experiments. He sends samples to get tested for the presence of microorganisms when he taste-tests them himself. The take home message from his presentation was “[the] future of food is microbiology!” So keep that in mind next time you’re fermenting sauerkraut or kimchi or making cheese and wine! Many of these delicious flavors are results of microorganisms doing their thing. Chang doesn’t hold back when testing the effect of microorganisms, stating that his next venture is going to be experimenting with vinegar. He is a man of food and science—what more could you want? And he makes a bangin’ ramen!

 - Christina Pan